Oct 3, 2018

Bastard mites

4 comments

well just noticed i have spider mites and live in ontario ive used neem in the past and as far as end all one time..lol they did not work well,that was years back but does any organic way to kill work or anything thanks.

Oct 4, 2018Edited: Oct 4, 2018

I've only ever sprayed plants during my first indoor grow because I got gnats really bad, but I have some knowledge on the topic still (*nowadays I let my soil dry out more to prevent gnats). Neem oil is a great place to start. Neem has Azadirachtin, a molecule which repels spider mites and also prevents their eggs from hatching by disrupting a hormone. The key when using Neem oil is to apply every 3 days- as the spider mite eggs will be hatching every 5 days. If you are not using an organic spray just make sure your sprays are at least certified for consumable crops (not ornamentals). Pyrethrum and horticultural oils in general work well too against spider mites. Pyrethrum from marigolds electrocutes spider mites from the inside out. Horticultural oils work by suffocation, try using rosemary or something, it will suffocate them. These are all quite violent on the bug's level of things I am realizing... Enjoy getting rid of those bastards! *Also wanted to include that you can use the "Triple Threat" against them. Do a brief search online. I am not exactly sure how they work but they appear to out-compete the spider mites basically by thriving in a larger window of temp/rH and by being aggressive hunters of the mites.

Oct 4, 2018

Thanks for the reply and info bud much appreciated.

Craft Grower Series, S2/E20 at 11:30, Chef B mixes a foliar spray for PM and spider mites. I'm assuming that it isn't only a preventative spray.

That foiler spray appears to be working. The Castile soap will dissolve that protective waxy layer that the mites are covered in just like plants, which have a protective waxy coating that prevents them from drying out. The essential oils that you choose also has the same effect. The mites will dry out and dye. In an outdoor grow there are many other factors that come into play that mother nature provides like predatory meat eating insects. When I acquired the mothers that I am growing they where in bad shape, there condition was critical and something had to be done that had an immediate effect. I sprayed them with Bugbegone. They where sprayed at the warehouse and I sprayed them five days later when the eggs hatched. Once the infestation was taken care off, mother nature took care of the rest. Live organics, fresh air, clean water. I haven't had an infestation since. As Local Fixx mentioned, I talk about it in S2|E20. The spray is not just a preventative measure. It dries out those little bastards.

Oct 7, 2018

Thanks a bunch chef sad part is i watch every show you put out..lol must be too medicated but i used neem 3 times for the last six day's not a sign but i will follow on all your preventative measures from now on and keep spraying for one more week every two day's just in case,growers love all.

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  • Hi all. Below is a recipe for a homemade organic pro-mix taken from SF Gate. I know Chef has passed but I think this is still an excellent forum to gather on and spread research with. I do think someone should comment on if this web page will exist for long though as well just in case so this valuable research is not deleted! I have back ups just in case but I'll make a seperate post for that. Onto the pro-mix recipe: 1/3 peat moss 1/3 perlite 1/3 organic gardening soil 1/4 cup garden lime per gallon of mix I have tried it and it works. Be careful if you have hard water, you will need to add intermediate chelators (AKA L-Amino Acids) to chelate the calcium, magnesium, etc in your water to prevent transpiration issues etc general salt issues that occur with mixing hard water and this fairly sweet and calcium and magnesium rich soil mix. I recommend going easy on the dolomite lime in general and also go easy on the peat moss, peaty soil is known to compact. If you are gonna be moving plants in pots add more perlite than peat moss because this will help with transpiration issues that come from compaction when moving potted plants around. You'll notice how good this mix smells and works for plants! You'll get very fast growing plants because this mix is focused on high porosity for a very high rate of transpiration and therefore plant mass production! Also note that this mix only feeds plants for a couple weeks and then you will need to add some salts for the plant and soil health. Adding a bit of organic matter to the soil eventually will be a good idea as well to continue feeding your organic base in the soil. I personally have a food web with springtails being consumed by a certain antonymous fungi in my soil I try to keep going. The springtails don't leave the pot and the fungi and springtails provide a ton of nitrogen to the plant, potentially CO2 as well! This cycle has successfully infected all the pots in my house interestingly. Sources: SF Gate Guide for peat moss pH balancing: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/balance-ph-lime-peat-potting-33867.html Peat moss to perlite ratio (Also SF Gate): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/recommended-ratio-peat-moss-perlite-46321.html SF Gate's article on the disadvantages of soil-less media (similar to this growing medium (pro-mix) minus the organic gardening soil): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/disadvantages-soilless-mixes-92328.html SF Gate article on composition of potting soil (good place to start to understand potting soils which are often replaced by soil-less pro-mixes). Also ratios of stuff: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/composition-potting-soil-75052.html On the springtail and fungi note, that is harder to source. The certain springtail eating and red hued mushroom producing fungi comes from Host Defence's Myco-Blend all purpose microbial and biostimulant inoculant and I think the springtails followed me via transporting the same compost over a long period of time. On the transpiration topic: Dr. B.C. Wolverton's book "How to Grow Fresh Air" explains that there is an equation that dictates how much air a plant is filtering dependent upon how much mass the plant produces. This has a lot to do w/ the soil medium. High porosity soil makes for the fastest mass production in plants. PS. If you have your own high porosity pro-mix or something similar please post it here. Of particular interest are environmentally friendly mixes, which the above mentioned mix is not due to the unsustainable peat moss component. Coco coir can be used to replace it (and is more environmentally friendly) but then potassium salts should be added at some point although I am less experienced with that mix so I don't know how soon potassium would be essential. I imagine co co coir may cause issues w/ pH because it may not be super acidic and so dolomite lime may need to be adjusted to lesser quantity per gallon. Also this mix may have too much calcium and magnesium due to coco coir and dolomite lime having so much of these elements. Maybe it'd be fine though. A good pH, texture, and an organic base, and magical things can happen with any soil mix basically.
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