Feb 20

Clones / Mothers

7 comments

Hi, I’ve got a couple Bruce Banner ladies that I have taken clones from. Chef, I’d love to see you grow this strain? Does anyone know what is the law regarding sharing clones? Only because I got a 100% success rate on my clones and with my mothers, I’ll have too many 😉.

also any tips on how to keep mothers and how long can they be kept? Cheers✌️

Any mother experts out there? NO not like that. Just kidding haha. Mothers are a science on their own. I hear you want to keep the nitrogen to potassium ratio 1:1 for strong healthy mothers. Make the (N) ppm just adequate. Just enough. Other than that, micronutrient foliar sprays are good before cutting to maximize energy within the clones taken. Kelp foliar sprays (also contains micronutrients) are good throughout the growth cycle of the mother to introduce cytokins (a growth hormone) to create conditions for short internodal length and more horizontal branching. Don't pick them up too much, plants can go into shock for 2 days just from being moved around in their pots. When finally taking cuttings (which sounds like you've mastered!), take them from the middle branches, as new growth tips are exporters of carbon. It also helps to take cuttings at the end of the light cycle when plants have some extra sugar stored up. So, make sure your mother plants are nicely watered and healthy etc before taking cuttings. I'm sure you already know but be sure to use a sharp blade, you don't want to cause an embolism in the plant (air bubble) from the squeezing that occurs from dull blades. I'm sure you know everything else I could mention or Chef B could cover. I hope these extra tips help. I'm not sure how long you can keep a mother plant. I believe years. And there are ways to tissue culture in which you can maintain plant genetics for decades before senescence (idiopathic death, as in unknown cause). But tissue culture is more complex and kind of beyond my scope of things.

Thanks for the info Jonnycakes! I’ve read about having to trim the root ball. Is that something too?Any tips?? Not that I’m anywhere near having them that long yet, Just trying to get my ducks in a row. Cheers

Mar 6Edited: Mar 6

@Inkwebz No problem. I haven't read anything about that myself in my research on mothers... That's some real bonzai shiet. Haha. It is possible, I've seen bonzai workers trim tree root balls as a part of their small tree maintenance, but they've definitely had those trees for years from their size. So, probably, if you're keeping them for years you know. I would think careful phosphorus and in-soil fungi management could possibly manage that. But that's just a guess from the fact that phosphorus plays such a key role in limiting root mass with cannabis, among most other plants. For instance, Chef B mentions how adding too much phosphorus can result in a very large rootball during flower, which we may not want. As another example, it has been shown that many plants inoculated with mycorrhizal fungi (compared with controls with none) have much larger root mass and lateral branching, suspected to be from increased phosphorus and nitrogen uptake. Many showed increased overall growth when decreased amounts of phosphorus were added in their soils, interestingly. I think it's good to keep soils slightly starved of the stuff, as how it is in old growth forests. Phosphorus is the limiting factor in old growth forests, which is why fungi rule! And why we need bears bringing fish bones to trees. Here's the bonzai video btw if interested. "Bonsai,The Endless Ritual..." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEGevD5jd64&t=5s *To add: it has been shown that plants inoculated with mycorrhizal fungi have actually shorter but fatter and more lateral growing roots, compared with plants without. From the pictures I've seen though, plants with appropriate fungal partners seem to just have more massive root systems.

Nice one @johnnycakes. i think It might be a bit in digesting all the info ( a split and a read me thinks). Good news though as I didn’t want to get into the root ball shyte!

Mar 6Edited: Mar 6

I use the NORML blog a lot for the US. I don't know and don't need to know what part of North America you're in, lol. I was looking for the Canadian law. Man, what a nightmare. At least in the US, it seems that as long as a person has the mature plants that are allowed, all should be cool. If my max is 4 plants, but I give away 2 to someone who doesn't have any, seems like both should be cool. But it's all goofed up. The state of Maine allows 12 veg plants and only 3 mature plants. They have to know those veg plants aren't going in the trash. But p[ant count is stupid. Just another way of keeping the leash on.

@plantmedicineheals,You‘re referencing the sharing of clones ,yeah? I’ve already given 2 away as birthday presents? felt as good as Santa! 😎

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  • Hi all. Below is a recipe for a homemade organic pro-mix taken from SF Gate. I know Chef has passed but I think this is still an excellent forum to gather on and spread research with. I do think someone should comment on if this web page will exist for long though as well just in case so this valuable research is not deleted! I have back ups just in case but I'll make a seperate post for that. Onto the pro-mix recipe: 1/3 peat moss 1/3 perlite 1/3 organic gardening soil 1/4 cup garden lime per gallon of mix I have tried it and it works. Be careful if you have hard water, you will need to add intermediate chelators (AKA L-Amino Acids) to chelate the calcium, magnesium, etc in your water to prevent transpiration issues etc general salt issues that occur with mixing hard water and this fairly sweet and calcium and magnesium rich soil mix. I recommend going easy on the dolomite lime in general and also go easy on the peat moss, peaty soil is known to compact. If you are gonna be moving plants in pots add more perlite than peat moss because this will help with transpiration issues that come from compaction when moving potted plants around. You'll notice how good this mix smells and works for plants! You'll get very fast growing plants because this mix is focused on high porosity for a very high rate of transpiration and therefore plant mass production! Also note that this mix only feeds plants for a couple weeks and then you will need to add some salts for the plant and soil health. Adding a bit of organic matter to the soil eventually will be a good idea as well to continue feeding your organic base in the soil. I personally have a food web with springtails being consumed by a certain antonymous fungi in my soil I try to keep going. The springtails don't leave the pot and the fungi and springtails provide a ton of nitrogen to the plant, potentially CO2 as well! This cycle has successfully infected all the pots in my house interestingly. Sources: SF Gate Guide for peat moss pH balancing: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/balance-ph-lime-peat-potting-33867.html Peat moss to perlite ratio (Also SF Gate): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/recommended-ratio-peat-moss-perlite-46321.html SF Gate's article on the disadvantages of soil-less media (similar to this growing medium (pro-mix) minus the organic gardening soil): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/disadvantages-soilless-mixes-92328.html SF Gate article on composition of potting soil (good place to start to understand potting soils which are often replaced by soil-less pro-mixes). Also ratios of stuff: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/composition-potting-soil-75052.html On the springtail and fungi note, that is harder to source. The certain springtail eating and red hued mushroom producing fungi comes from Host Defence's Myco-Blend all purpose microbial and biostimulant inoculant and I think the springtails followed me via transporting the same compost over a long period of time. On the transpiration topic: Dr. B.C. Wolverton's book "How to Grow Fresh Air" explains that there is an equation that dictates how much air a plant is filtering dependent upon how much mass the plant produces. This has a lot to do w/ the soil medium. High porosity soil makes for the fastest mass production in plants. PS. If you have your own high porosity pro-mix or something similar please post it here. Of particular interest are environmentally friendly mixes, which the above mentioned mix is not due to the unsustainable peat moss component. Coco coir can be used to replace it (and is more environmentally friendly) but then potassium salts should be added at some point although I am less experienced with that mix so I don't know how soon potassium would be essential. I imagine co co coir may cause issues w/ pH because it may not be super acidic and so dolomite lime may need to be adjusted to lesser quantity per gallon. Also this mix may have too much calcium and magnesium due to coco coir and dolomite lime having so much of these elements. Maybe it'd be fine though. A good pH, texture, and an organic base, and magical things can happen with any soil mix basically.
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