Feb 28

Germinating

4 comments

 

I don’t know if I am in the right section but anyways Is anyone here has a piece of knowledge or experience about Germinating marijuana seeds? A new way of germination and growing cannabis vines move seeds in the air and space to grow it and in a vented container swing the container in a different direction. I also grow faster and produce more (OVERNIGHT GROWTH). Will work for other products spray the air with the moisture ingredients (water flavored sugar) and aerated container in moist ingredients environment. Counterclockwise and clockwise thermodynamics wishy-washy field motion is what a sphere with a cylinder in the middle to hold the seed it does hold in all ways. Like a ceiling fan motor or plastic bag. As I do some research, I have read an article about germinating  blimburnseeds.com/cannabis/original/medical-cbd

I honestly couldn't interpret this post. To start, you don't "germinate 'marijuana' seeds." Every seed is a gamble, as in a product of sexual reproduction, or a new set of genetics. And, we don't know whether this new set of genetics is "marijuana" (or flower producing cannabis, as in female cannabis plants) or a male (does not produce marijuana). Therefore you are likely to get a mix of cannabis and marijuana producing cannabis when germinating seeds. There are feminized seeds which have very high rates of producing female plants but I hear their genetics are unstable (prone to turn hermaphrodite) due to the way they are produced. I can say cannabis is a tropical plant, and therefore it doesn't require light to germinate unlike other seeds, for example lettuce seeds (a non-tropical plant) are stimulated into germination by red light (yet inhibited by far red light, interestingly). Many people take advantage of tropical plants' genetics when they germinate cannabis seeds via moist paper towel in a plastic baggy in a kitchen drawer or something (checked every 2 days for 10 days). They then carefully place the seed 1/4-1/2 inch into their soil, being sure to not damage the sprouted rhizome.

sprouted rhizome in laymans terms is " TAP ROOT " .

 

LOL. I don't know what kind of high horse I was on when writing that comment. Clearly not my regular high horse hehe. Sorry bout that rant catriona... Please disregard... and Good luck with your pursuit of Mary Jane.

 

I don't think any biology book will have the term sprouted rhizome. No idea where that came from. Thanks vedmonson

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  • Hi all. Below is a recipe for a homemade organic pro-mix taken from SF Gate. I know Chef has passed but I think this is still an excellent forum to gather on and spread research with. I do think someone should comment on if this web page will exist for long though as well just in case so this valuable research is not deleted! I have back ups just in case but I'll make a seperate post for that. Onto the pro-mix recipe: 1/3 peat moss 1/3 perlite 1/3 organic gardening soil 1/4 cup garden lime per gallon of mix I have tried it and it works. Be careful if you have hard water, you will need to add intermediate chelators (AKA L-Amino Acids) to chelate the calcium, magnesium, etc in your water to prevent transpiration issues etc general salt issues that occur with mixing hard water and this fairly sweet and calcium and magnesium rich soil mix. I recommend going easy on the dolomite lime in general and also go easy on the peat moss, peaty soil is known to compact. If you are gonna be moving plants in pots add more perlite than peat moss because this will help with transpiration issues that come from compaction when moving potted plants around. You'll notice how good this mix smells and works for plants! You'll get very fast growing plants because this mix is focused on high porosity for a very high rate of transpiration and therefore plant mass production! Also note that this mix only feeds plants for a couple weeks and then you will need to add some salts for the plant and soil health. Adding a bit of organic matter to the soil eventually will be a good idea as well to continue feeding your organic base in the soil. I personally have a food web with springtails being consumed by a certain antonymous fungi in my soil I try to keep going. The springtails don't leave the pot and the fungi and springtails provide a ton of nitrogen to the plant, potentially CO2 as well! This cycle has successfully infected all the pots in my house interestingly. Sources: SF Gate Guide for peat moss pH balancing: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/balance-ph-lime-peat-potting-33867.html Peat moss to perlite ratio (Also SF Gate): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/recommended-ratio-peat-moss-perlite-46321.html SF Gate's article on the disadvantages of soil-less media (similar to this growing medium (pro-mix) minus the organic gardening soil): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/disadvantages-soilless-mixes-92328.html SF Gate article on composition of potting soil (good place to start to understand potting soils which are often replaced by soil-less pro-mixes). Also ratios of stuff: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/composition-potting-soil-75052.html On the springtail and fungi note, that is harder to source. The certain springtail eating and red hued mushroom producing fungi comes from Host Defence's Myco-Blend all purpose microbial and biostimulant inoculant and I think the springtails followed me via transporting the same compost over a long period of time. On the transpiration topic: Dr. B.C. Wolverton's book "How to Grow Fresh Air" explains that there is an equation that dictates how much air a plant is filtering dependent upon how much mass the plant produces. This has a lot to do w/ the soil medium. High porosity soil makes for the fastest mass production in plants. PS. If you have your own high porosity pro-mix or something similar please post it here. Of particular interest are environmentally friendly mixes, which the above mentioned mix is not due to the unsustainable peat moss component. Coco coir can be used to replace it (and is more environmentally friendly) but then potassium salts should be added at some point although I am less experienced with that mix so I don't know how soon potassium would be essential. I imagine co co coir may cause issues w/ pH because it may not be super acidic and so dolomite lime may need to be adjusted to lesser quantity per gallon. Also this mix may have too much calcium and magnesium due to coco coir and dolomite lime having so much of these elements. Maybe it'd be fine though. A good pH, texture, and an organic base, and magical things can happen with any soil mix basically.
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