May 28

Indoor grow lights with veg and bloom switch

4 comments

I was wondering if you turn on both for flowering, and if it was a good idea just to use the bloom after the 21 days into flower. Mars hydro says to use both for the whole flowering phase.

 

Jun 3Edited: Jun 3

My short answer is both for flower and veg if the only option is all or nothing. It depends on the light. Some lights have a switch and other have a percentage dial so there's more than just off or on. I know that some guy don't flick the bloom switch until flower, but others say some red is necessary for veg. Lights now, including many from MH, are saying full spectrum, from veg to flower. I guess the question is whether the plant or the light decides what spectrum is used. I think the plants decides what it uses during whatever growth stage it is in. I don't know if there's really a right or wrong answer. The big thing for new growers is to get solid on the basics, soil, amendments, ph, etc. Fine tuning light spectrum may be more for when all the other stuff is dialed in to near perfection.

 

If you're giving them some business, Mars Hydro, Iluminar, ProGrow Tech, etc. customer service can provide a developer viewpoint. I'm not trying to sell anything, just giving some examples of different LEDs that people may be using. The ProGrow Tech lights have some cool dials, but they are a bit high-end for a casual grower. But the light manufacturers, as you mention, will often provide some direction.

Try both and see if you like the results! I've been knitpicking my lighting for weeks just based on not liking what I've seen.... And @Plant Medicine Heals , lighting is the first most important thing you gilly soose. 1+1/2 to 2 feet above the growing tips and raise it as they grow!

Thanks for the great info, I like the what chef calls hippie weed so its lower thc than other strains but its really incredible. Blueberry cheesecake is exact as a blueberry cheesecake. The only other way I could think of is non gmo amendments to up the resin production. Its fine the way it is but it would be cool to get it up to 20 percent, but Im learning little by little.

You're right on track... If you want the highest quality plants, you should top dress nutrients or band them. I like to band nutrients for flower/fruit especially to make them more immediately available, particularly phosphorus and potassium. Sounds like a cool grow my friend, I'd be interested in how it turns out!

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  • Hi all. Below is a recipe for a homemade organic pro-mix taken from SF Gate. I know Chef has passed but I think this is still an excellent forum to gather on and spread research with. I do think someone should comment on if this web page will exist for long though as well just in case so this valuable research is not deleted! I have back ups just in case but I'll make a seperate post for that. Onto the pro-mix recipe: 1/3 peat moss 1/3 perlite 1/3 organic gardening soil 1/4 cup garden lime per gallon of mix I have tried it and it works. Be careful if you have hard water, you will need to add intermediate chelators (AKA L-Amino Acids) to chelate the calcium, magnesium, etc in your water to prevent transpiration issues etc general salt issues that occur with mixing hard water and this fairly sweet and calcium and magnesium rich soil mix. I recommend going easy on the dolomite lime in general and also go easy on the peat moss, peaty soil is known to compact. If you are gonna be moving plants in pots add more perlite than peat moss because this will help with transpiration issues that come from compaction when moving potted plants around. You'll notice how good this mix smells and works for plants! You'll get very fast growing plants because this mix is focused on high porosity for a very high rate of transpiration and therefore plant mass production! Also note that this mix only feeds plants for a couple weeks and then you will need to add some salts for the plant and soil health. Adding a bit of organic matter to the soil eventually will be a good idea as well to continue feeding your organic base in the soil. I personally have a food web with springtails being consumed by a certain antonymous fungi in my soil I try to keep going. The springtails don't leave the pot and the fungi and springtails provide a ton of nitrogen to the plant, potentially CO2 as well! This cycle has successfully infected all the pots in my house interestingly. Sources: SF Gate Guide for peat moss pH balancing: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/balance-ph-lime-peat-potting-33867.html Peat moss to perlite ratio (Also SF Gate): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/recommended-ratio-peat-moss-perlite-46321.html SF Gate's article on the disadvantages of soil-less media (similar to this growing medium (pro-mix) minus the organic gardening soil): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/disadvantages-soilless-mixes-92328.html SF Gate article on composition of potting soil (good place to start to understand potting soils which are often replaced by soil-less pro-mixes). Also ratios of stuff: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/composition-potting-soil-75052.html On the springtail and fungi note, that is harder to source. The certain springtail eating and red hued mushroom producing fungi comes from Host Defence's Myco-Blend all purpose microbial and biostimulant inoculant and I think the springtails followed me via transporting the same compost over a long period of time. On the transpiration topic: Dr. B.C. Wolverton's book "How to Grow Fresh Air" explains that there is an equation that dictates how much air a plant is filtering dependent upon how much mass the plant produces. This has a lot to do w/ the soil medium. High porosity soil makes for the fastest mass production in plants. PS. If you have your own high porosity pro-mix or something similar please post it here. Of particular interest are environmentally friendly mixes, which the above mentioned mix is not due to the unsustainable peat moss component. Coco coir can be used to replace it (and is more environmentally friendly) but then potassium salts should be added at some point although I am less experienced with that mix so I don't know how soon potassium would be essential. I imagine co co coir may cause issues w/ pH because it may not be super acidic and so dolomite lime may need to be adjusted to lesser quantity per gallon. Also this mix may have too much calcium and magnesium due to coco coir and dolomite lime having so much of these elements. Maybe it'd be fine though. A good pH, texture, and an organic base, and magical things can happen with any soil mix basically.
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