Jun 28, 2018

Indoor questions

5 comments

Post any indoor related questions or information and we can all help each other out, De.

Jun 30, 2018

Indoor transplanting - I transplanted a Bubblelicious from a quarter gallon container to a 10 gallon for a no till organic grow over a month ago. She is doing great but I am considering more transplants on my next grow thinking the final one should be a 3 gallon or 5 gallon in to the 10 gallon no till organic soil. Was always worried about watering with such a small root system in a large fabric pot. Still do even with the plant in good health. Any thoughts on the frequency of transplanting up to the final pot ?

Jun 30, 2018
Top Comment

It has always been a good idea to gear up pot size, however when growing no-till style you re-use the final pot of soil by cutting out your harvested plant at the base and planting a clone or a seedling in its place without disturbing the soil. You might need a product like Cannazyme, which contain the right microbes to break down the old root system and turn the old roots into soluble nutrients. Do not over water during transition, this could develop root rot.

Jun 30, 2018

Thank You ! I'm happy you are posting indoor videos and including the home grow to the forum. I currently have worms in my no till soil and once I do harvest the plant will the worms break down the old root system ?

Jul 2, 2018

Hi chef, Thanks for the great platform for us like minded growers glad to see you here helping others you are a kind man and we all love you here. Much appreciated. @zmutt00 When transplanting i only transplant twice to save shock and get your plant use to its enviorment. I know some who just start in big pots but thats another topic, so when i transplant i would be careful always make sure everything is ready to go and try not expose your roots to strong light i normally transplant in natural light. And when i transplant i normally will add abit of palin ph'd water as i go, so add some then drop my plant into the new bucket, then give abit more water about 300-500ml then an hour or 2 later i will do it again, 300-500ml per 30L bucket. I normally foilar feed my plants with a weak soluction of ALG-A-MIC which helps with transplant shock and stress etc. its 100% organic and it helps if you foilar feed even with just ph water for the next few days after transplant, hope this adds to chefs comment, let me know how you get on? Dean.

Jul 2, 2018

Just another tip for transplantting that i had success with is after transplant keep them under lights for 36-48 hours some people say to leave them in darkness, but i have my own theory that when you shock a plant weather thats by (transplant or stress etc) then put it into darkness, it puts the plant to sleep and the roots in shock/sleep mode.So the roots are alseep and shocked and they dont want to work like taking water up and nutrients to de-stress itselfs from the shock of transplant, so you want to keep your roots turned on so they deal with that stress straight away and that would be to keep lights on and micro water it. give it a try i seen growth on my plants after 16 hours after a transplant.

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  • Hi all. Below is a recipe for a homemade organic pro-mix taken from SF Gate. I know Chef has passed but I think this is still an excellent forum to gather on and spread research with. I do think someone should comment on if this web page will exist for long though as well just in case so this valuable research is not deleted! I have back ups just in case but I'll make a seperate post for that. Onto the pro-mix recipe: 1/3 peat moss 1/3 perlite 1/3 organic gardening soil 1/4 cup garden lime per gallon of mix I have tried it and it works. Be careful if you have hard water, you will need to add intermediate chelators (AKA L-Amino Acids) to chelate the calcium, magnesium, etc in your water to prevent transpiration issues etc general salt issues that occur with mixing hard water and this fairly sweet and calcium and magnesium rich soil mix. I recommend going easy on the dolomite lime in general and also go easy on the peat moss, peaty soil is known to compact. If you are gonna be moving plants in pots add more perlite than peat moss because this will help with transpiration issues that come from compaction when moving potted plants around. You'll notice how good this mix smells and works for plants! You'll get very fast growing plants because this mix is focused on high porosity for a very high rate of transpiration and therefore plant mass production! Also note that this mix only feeds plants for a couple weeks and then you will need to add some salts for the plant and soil health. Adding a bit of organic matter to the soil eventually will be a good idea as well to continue feeding your organic base in the soil. I personally have a food web with springtails being consumed by a certain antonymous fungi in my soil I try to keep going. The springtails don't leave the pot and the fungi and springtails provide a ton of nitrogen to the plant, potentially CO2 as well! This cycle has successfully infected all the pots in my house interestingly. Sources: SF Gate Guide for peat moss pH balancing: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/balance-ph-lime-peat-potting-33867.html Peat moss to perlite ratio (Also SF Gate): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/recommended-ratio-peat-moss-perlite-46321.html SF Gate's article on the disadvantages of soil-less media (similar to this growing medium (pro-mix) minus the organic gardening soil): https://homeguides.sfgate.com/disadvantages-soilless-mixes-92328.html SF Gate article on composition of potting soil (good place to start to understand potting soils which are often replaced by soil-less pro-mixes). Also ratios of stuff: https://homeguides.sfgate.com/composition-potting-soil-75052.html On the springtail and fungi note, that is harder to source. The certain springtail eating and red hued mushroom producing fungi comes from Host Defence's Myco-Blend all purpose microbial and biostimulant inoculant and I think the springtails followed me via transporting the same compost over a long period of time. On the transpiration topic: Dr. B.C. Wolverton's book "How to Grow Fresh Air" explains that there is an equation that dictates how much air a plant is filtering dependent upon how much mass the plant produces. This has a lot to do w/ the soil medium. High porosity soil makes for the fastest mass production in plants. PS. If you have your own high porosity pro-mix or something similar please post it here. Of particular interest are environmentally friendly mixes, which the above mentioned mix is not due to the unsustainable peat moss component. Coco coir can be used to replace it (and is more environmentally friendly) but then potassium salts should be added at some point although I am less experienced with that mix so I don't know how soon potassium would be essential. I imagine co co coir may cause issues w/ pH because it may not be super acidic and so dolomite lime may need to be adjusted to lesser quantity per gallon. Also this mix may have too much calcium and magnesium due to coco coir and dolomite lime having so much of these elements. Maybe it'd be fine though. A good pH, texture, and an organic base, and magical things can happen with any soil mix basically.
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