Sep 9, 2018

Question about the craft grower series.


This is aimed at Chef B, I have been following your series as well as your other YouTube vids. After watching your newest episode I need something cleared up with respect to your compost tea.

First off, I'm a beginner grower, so I'm learning everything I can here and your shows have been a wealth of knowledge.

In a few videos including the Craft Grower series you show us how to make a tea. You mention brewing for 24-36 hours. The latest show and I believe one other talks about you making the tea for only 7 hours?

I'm a bit conflicted here, Should a guy be doing it for 7 hours instead? Also, you didn't aerate, why? Benefits of shorter vs longer steeps?

Not trying to stir the pot here just getting my info correct.



Sep 14, 2018

When making a compost tea, it is brewed for two or three days. This will cultivate micro organisms. A steeped to is different because I am not cultivating micro organisms in the tea. I am just feeding nutrients into the soil. A seven hour steep is enough and an air stone would definitely keep things oxygenated.

Sep 15, 2018

I am a beginner grower as well @Predator_Hunter. and trying to figure out how to make a brew that is right for my situation. Interesting @Chef. I am most interested in what you have to say about amino acids. You mentioned them briefly in a video, that they are brought about by the fungi which you add after brewing the aerobic bacteria for the first 24 hours. I have hard water so amino acids are the most important biostimulant in my teas so it would be great if you would cover this more in depth. Also, do longer steeped teas get more nutritional value from microbes? They must at least get a slow release of nutrients from the burst of microbial life cycling and dying that have sequestered them nutes. Very interesting to know a short cold brew is enough to extract the nutrients you want though. I assume all the soluble nutrients. I just got your book, I guess I might find the info there but more about the amino acids and fungi in video would be cool too!

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  • Hi all. Below is a recipe for a homemade organic pro-mix taken from SF Gate. I know Chef has passed but I think this is still an excellent forum to gather on and spread research with. I do think someone should comment on if this web page will exist for long though as well just in case so this valuable research is not deleted! I have back ups just in case but I'll make a seperate post for that. Onto the pro-mix recipe: 1/3 peat moss 1/3 perlite 1/3 organic gardening soil 1/4 cup garden lime per gallon of mix I have tried it and it works. Be careful if you have hard water, you will need to add intermediate chelators (AKA L-Amino Acids) to chelate the calcium, magnesium, etc in your water to prevent transpiration issues etc general salt issues that occur with mixing hard water and this fairly sweet and calcium and magnesium rich soil mix. I recommend going easy on the dolomite lime in general and also go easy on the peat moss, peaty soil is known to compact. If you are gonna be moving plants in pots add more perlite than peat moss because this will help with transpiration issues that come from compaction when moving potted plants around. You'll notice how good this mix smells and works for plants! You'll get very fast growing plants because this mix is focused on high porosity for a very high rate of transpiration and therefore plant mass production! Also note that this mix only feeds plants for a couple weeks and then you will need to add some salts for the plant and soil health. Adding a bit of organic matter to the soil eventually will be a good idea as well to continue feeding your organic base in the soil. I personally have a food web with springtails being consumed by a certain antonymous fungi in my soil I try to keep going. The springtails don't leave the pot and the fungi and springtails provide a ton of nitrogen to the plant, potentially CO2 as well! This cycle has successfully infected all the pots in my house interestingly. Sources: SF Gate Guide for peat moss pH balancing: Peat moss to perlite ratio (Also SF Gate): SF Gate's article on the disadvantages of soil-less media (similar to this growing medium (pro-mix) minus the organic gardening soil): SF Gate article on composition of potting soil (good place to start to understand potting soils which are often replaced by soil-less pro-mixes). Also ratios of stuff: On the springtail and fungi note, that is harder to source. The certain springtail eating and red hued mushroom producing fungi comes from Host Defence's Myco-Blend all purpose microbial and biostimulant inoculant and I think the springtails followed me via transporting the same compost over a long period of time. On the transpiration topic: Dr. B.C. Wolverton's book "How to Grow Fresh Air" explains that there is an equation that dictates how much air a plant is filtering dependent upon how much mass the plant produces. This has a lot to do w/ the soil medium. High porosity soil makes for the fastest mass production in plants. PS. If you have your own high porosity pro-mix or something similar please post it here. Of particular interest are environmentally friendly mixes, which the above mentioned mix is not due to the unsustainable peat moss component. Coco coir can be used to replace it (and is more environmentally friendly) but then potassium salts should be added at some point although I am less experienced with that mix so I don't know how soon potassium would be essential. I imagine co co coir may cause issues w/ pH because it may not be super acidic and so dolomite lime may need to be adjusted to lesser quantity per gallon. Also this mix may have too much calcium and magnesium due to coco coir and dolomite lime having so much of these elements. Maybe it'd be fine though. A good pH, texture, and an organic base, and magical things can happen with any soil mix basically.

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